Kouzu Belgravia deserves a lot of attention. I’ve said it on more than one occasion when writing up my reviews of London restaurants – fine dining isn’t just about the food. It’s about an entire experience, soaking up the ambience and atmosphere, indulging the senses, really enjoying every sip of wine or every bite of your beautifully presented food. Japanese dining is high on my list when it comes to ticking off those ‘experience’ boxes. It’s such an elegant ritual. Art-gallery worthy dishes which demand the flash of a camera before you dig in, so you can capture their beauty before you devour them with your chopsticks. And the sake. Ahh… sake. It’s fast becoming my drink of choice, so fresh, palatable and complimentary to the taste of the food.
So, where is it this time that’s caught my eye? The cool clientele of the culinary world are whispering about this secret treasure chest of charm, but not so loud that anyone would hear unless they want you to know about it. I absolutely want you to know about it, because Kouzu is one of the best, if not the best restaurant I’ve been to in a long time.
Kouzu just seems to have gotten everything right. From its stunning 1850’s Grade II listed building location just a few minutes from Victoria, to the amazing understated but designer décor… its sweeping staircase which leads to the omakase sushi bar… All it needs now is a super-star chef. Check. Throw ex head-chef of Zuma and Suntory, Kyoichi Kai into the pan and you have hit the Japanese jackpot.
The staff are amazing . They’re fun, they’re attentive, they know exactly what you need and when you need it, without being over fussy. Sitting at the omakase bar watching the theatre of sushi and sashimi preparation unfold, whilst enjoying a glass of Dewazakura Izumi Jyudan (an absolutely amazing sake), feels as relaxing as your favourite massage.
Using the absolute finest of ingredients, Kouzu maintains its dedication to high standards by strictly buying in fresh produce. That means every delicate morsel of eel, tuna or sea bass has been plucked straight from the water and brought to your plate. And it tastes that way too. From the new stream sashimi menu, highlights include the ceviche-influenced lime-cured seabass with salsa and green pepper sauce and the French-influenced pan-fried foie gras with spinach and teriyaki wasabi. It’s definitely the first time I’ve tried foie gras sashimi – a fantastic combination of rich deep foie gras flavour with the sharp wasabi kick to cut through the richness.
The chef’s selection sashimi consisted of melt-in-the-mouth salmon, yellowtail, scallop and eel and we devoured every last tender, fresh piece in one go, whilst at the same time, not wanting to spoil the artistic display from which it was presented!
Exquisite main dishes followed –each dish as perfect and balanced as the last and worth noting that the portion sizes are perfect. The best, although it was hard to choose, was the roasted black cod marinated in miso with fennel and celery salad. A buttery, almost non-fishy tasting fish which came coated in a beautiful thick miso glaze – the silky texture of the cod worked perfectly with the crunch of the celery. Absolutely to die for.
Now, Japanese desserts… usually a bit hit or miss for me. A plate of pretty macaroons in palatable pastels again showcased Kouzu’s quirky French influence, but if you’re having these, then you absolutely must leave room for the black sesame ice cream. The perfect combo of sweet and savoury, with a creamy consistency which coats the spoon and keeps you going back for more. Simply divine.
Kouzu… Remember where you heard the name, you going to be hearing a lot more about it. And get booking! Those spaces around the omakase sushi bar are filling up fast!
