Last updated: February 16, 2024
Mantra Thai in Newcastle have created a new culinary adventure which will transport you from cold, grey Newcastle to incredible places around Thailand including the popular coastal resort of Hua Hin and the bustling streets of Bangkok.
With a set 8 course menu being offered every Tuesday and Thursday night, guests are seated at 7pm sharp for a two and a half hour experience which includes twists on classic dishes and original recipes which have been around for centuries.
We start with a smooth seafood bisque packed with juicy king prawns and scallops and inspired by the pretty seaside town of Hua Hin. This sweet coconut and galangal based soup with its velvety texture and hints of lemongrass goes beautifully with a glass of Crement de Loire. Floral and zesty with bursts of citrus, this easy-drinking glass of fizz is also a great accompaniment to our second course – the Samui Sunrise Salmon which is served on a plate with an ice cube moat surrounding it to keep it absolutely fresh and garnished with a bright purple edible flower. The hit of spice really wakes up the palate, conjuring up images of a burning red sunrise across pink skies on the coast of Koh Samui.
With four main dishes to come, the first is Tamarind Kissed Duck with all the delicious flavour you’d expect from roasted crispy duck – the decorative plate smudge containing all the sweet, sour and caramel goodness of the tamarind. Crispy noodles expertly tower above a perfectly circular pineapple ring and we’re told to try and get a bite of everything together which is great advice! Our paired wine with this course is a red Spatburgunder Bockenheim – a German pinot noir with high acidity and low tannins which compliments rather than overpowering the meat. Geographically, this dish ‘a la Phetchabun’, takes us to North Central Thailand where some of the entire country’s best tamarind is produced.
Next up, Mantra Thai gives us the chance to sample an updated version of Thailand’s national dish – a traditional meal which dates back to 2490 BE ( Buddhist Era) and which absolutely has us googling ‘how long have humans been on earth’ and other mind boggling questions! Before heading down that rabbit hole, our version of Pad Ka Prao which translates as ‘holy basil stirfry’ offers up an incredible seabass with pan fried skin atop a vibrant green marinade. It comes with a cone of coconut rice wrapped in a banana leaf on the side which helps with the spice. The heat from this dish is not for the faint-hearted, and having looked into the history of the dish, it seems it was originally a dish for farmers and labourers to wash down their liquor with after a hard day’s work. Because the meat in the dish could be literally anything (even snake meat!), it was laced with plenty of spice to disguise the taste. Thankfully, Mantra Thai’s version is a lot more palatable and the pinot gris which sommelier Jamie has chosen to go with the dish is my favourite pairing of the night. This New Zealand white is more subtle with a low acidity and plenty of aromatic and tropical notes which are heavenly.
Course number five transports us to Ayutthaya – the capital of Siam where the ruins of the old city now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park. Hor Mok – a Thai steamed seafood curry made with coconut cream is served to us in a banana leaf, and the accompanying Hugel Reisling from Alsace is a beautiful choice – dry and elegant with hints of pear, citrus and gooseberry which compliment the sweetness of the Hor Mok. Translating as ‘bury wrap’, it used to be buried in charcoal ashes to cook it.
Our final main course is incredible. Lamb massaman is my favourite Thai dish and this one is no exception with tender juicy lamb perched upon a thousand layer potato – the rich, sweet sauce poured around the bowl by our waiter. The sweet and salty goodness is enhance by a beautiful 2006 Bodegas Benito Urbina rioja which has been aged in new oak for two years. Silky and elegant, its cinnamon notes are a harmonious match for this curry which is referred to as ‘a timeless taste of Rattanakosin’ on the menu. The historic quarter in the heart of Bangkok is home to all the grandest temples and cultural attractions so it’s a fitting dish.
After enjoying a strawberry, lychee and mint palate cleanser, there are two desserts to come, served with a sweet honey rich Tokaji. Khanom Thuai Foi Thong celebrates three cultures – Sino, Portugese and Thai. Made with coconut milk, rice, sugar, eggs and purple butterfly pea flower, it’s reminiscent of custard, light and delicate, served with golden spun strings of sugar on top which have an amazing texture. Our last dish is ‘a symphony of vanilla’ – green pandan pancakes stuffed with sweet coconut and served with the most incredible vanilla ice cream.
Our dining experience complete, we reflect on standout dishes – most definitely the tamarind duck and the lamb massman. For foodies, Mantra Thai’s set tasting menu is a must-try, but with each course comes a lovely bit of story-telling about the various areas of Thailand and some history on the dishes from your gastro tour guide.
Priced at £85pp for 8 courses with optional wine flight priced at £40pp. Buy your tickets here and view the full menu here.
