Just moments from York Railway Station stands The Grand, York, a hotel that feels like it was built to celebrate travel, time and occasion. Originally opened in 1906 as the headquarters of the North Eastern Railway, the building still carries that WOW factor. High ceilings, ornate tiling and sweeping staircases remain beautifully intact, and from the second you step inside, it feels like somewhere with stories to tell.
To mark 200 years of modern railways, I was invited to stay and experience an evening that brought together history, hospitality and food in the most thoughtful way.
History in the Walls
Before dinner, we were taken on a tour of the building. It was once known as ‘The Palace of Business’ for railway executives, and it still has that sense of importance. The Grand has also added a new wing of hotel rooms which included a cookery school, with events catering from children to adults, the stations set up like something from the Master Chef, looked like an exciting experience.
A Legacy of Dining
We then moved into Legacy, the hotel’s intimate fine dining restaurant, where the celebration began. We heard from railway expert Christian Wolmar, sharing his reflections on how railway travel shaped not only movement, but also how people dined. In the early days of train travel, dinner was an event. White tablecloths, several courses and passengers dressed for the experience rather than simply the destination.
Chef Kevin Bonello and his team created a ten course tasting menu inspired by that tradition. It wasn’t a history lesson, but a delicious journey which I was more than happy to be onboard.
Highlights from the Menu
The menu moved course by course, with highlights including the Orkney scallop with sake sabayon, Sturia caviar and fermented turnip served with a crisp Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Their interpretation of the classic Windsor Soup had a fun twist. Once served in first class dining carriages, it arrived here as braised beef brisket with confit root vegetables and a clear beef shin tea. It was paired with an elegant Argentine Cabernet Franc.
Another favourite for me was the spiced monkfish with Thai red curry and coconut coriander chutney, I could have happily had seconds, alongside a bright Pinot Gris from Central Otago. I still cannot forget the smoked Yorkshire venison loin with crumpet, apple ketchup and truffle celeriac tart followed, paired with Zinfandel from Lake County in California.
Dessert brought a playful close. ‘On Tracks’ with honey, rhubarb and ginger, followed by a 21st Century Plum Pudding with custard espuma and candied peel. Both were stunning and thoughtful.
Staying at The Grand
This is where the stay came into its own. The Grand isn’t only a backdrop for dining. It is a 5 star hotel that lives and breathes its history while still feeling current. I stayed in the modern wing. The room was spacious with a super soft king size bed, marble bathroom and a sense of calm luxury rather than anything flashy. Small touches made it personal too, like locally produced macaroons and a jar of honey from the hotel’s very own rooftop beehives.
Breakfast the next morning carried the same standard. Relaxed but polished. You can tell the care that goes into the tasting menu also carries through to the rest of the hotel.
If you appreciate history, exceptional food or simply a hotel that knows how to look after its guests, The Grand is exactly that in name and in nature.
Written by Claire Millican