Few places in the UK leave you genuinely speechless. But in the Scottish Highlands, it quickly becomes a bit of a theme. Every few minutes on the road, something new enters the horizon. Lochs disappear into low cloud, mountains move in and out of view, and just when you think you’ve seen it all, the landscape changes again. It feels dramatic, slightly unpredictable, and at times completely surreal.
We drove it in wind, rain and snow, and honestly, it only made the experience better.
Drive: Glasgow → Loch Lomond → Glencoe → Fort William → Loch Lochy
The Drive North
Once you leave Glasgow (we flew in from London City) and cross the Erskine Bridge, you quickly find yourself tracing the edge of Loch Lomond. Even in low visibility, it’s completely beautiful.
We stopped in Luss to stretch our legs, and it’s just the place you want early on in a trip like this. Pretty stone cottages, a small lochside beach, and more cafés and craft shops than you’d expect from somewhere so small.
Then there’s Glencoe. The scenery builds slowly and then suddenly engulfs you. It gets darker, bigger and more dramatic. We hit snow on the way through, and by the time we stopped at the Three Sisters viewpoint, visibility had dropped enough that we could barely make out the peaks. Strangely, that only added to it. The atmosphere here is crazy. Knowing scenes from Skyfall were filmed here makes it feel even more special.
Fort William is less romantic, but definitely a good stopping off point. It’s your last proper stop before things get remote, so it’s worth stocking up before heading on to Loch Lochy, where you’ll want to settle in for a few days.
Where to Stay
We based ourselves just north of Fort William, near Loch Lochy, and it worked perfectly. Quieter than neighbouring lochs, but no less beautiful, it sits right on the Caledonian Canal at Laggan Locks. Step outside and you’ve got everything you want from a Highlands escape. Water, mountains, fresh air, and an immediate sense of calm.
We stayed at Ivy Cottage, a cosy, beautifully refurbished 19th-century cottage set right on the canal. Compact but incredibly well thought through, it strikes a perfect balance between traditional Highland charm and just enough modern touches to please us city dwellers.
Inside, it’s warm, inviting and quick to feel like home. Wooden beams, soft lighting, and lots of little touches that feel personal rather than styled. There’s tartan and Highland “coos” dotted throughout, from cushions to artwork to a plush fluffy cow in the bedroom.
The kitchen is bigger than it looks online and comes fully equipped, which we certainly made the most of. Coffee in the mornings quickly became a ritual, and on colder evenings we were more than happy to cook rather than head back out again. The bathroom is also worth a mention. A huge walk-in shower with both rainfall and handheld heads, which feels especially good after a long, cold walk.
And then there’s the fire. A real one, which makes all the difference. It holds heat for hours and turns the whole space into somewhere you genuinely want to spend the evening. Coming back, lighting it, and settling in with a glass of wine was a real treat.
The setting is what really what makes it. Large windows keep the water in view even when you’re inside, and outside there’s a small decking area that looks straight out over the canal and the boats passing through the locks. Even in the cold, we found ourselves wrapped in blankets, sitting outside watching the light shift across the water. Easily some of the best moments of the trip.
What to Do
One of the best things we did here was also the simplest. We walked. Straight from the cottage, you can follow the canal past the locks towards Laggan. It’s flat, peaceful, and feels completely removed from everything.
If you carry on towards Invergarry, you’ll find castle ruins right on the water. We also picked up part of the Great Glen Way, which gives you a slightly different perspective looking back over the canal.
Unexpected highlight? Watching the locks. It sounds random, but it’s oddly addictive. Boats move slowly through, the water rises, gates open and close. It forces you to slow down, which feels very in keeping with everything else here.
If the weather behaves, kayaking or paddleboarding on Loch Lochy is meant to be brilliant. We didn’t quite manage it thanks to the snow, but it’s definitely one to come back for.
And if you’re feeling ambitious, Ben Nevis is a short drive away. Doable, but not casual. This is one to properly plan for.
Where to Eat
Three minutes from the cottage, sits the Eagle Barge Inn. It’s a converted Dutch barge floating on the canal, which already makes it feel like a bit of a find. Inside, it’s slightly chaotic, full of memorabilia, and very clearly a local spot. Walkers, boaters and locals all pile in together, which gives it a really relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
The food is simple but done properly. Fresh seafood, hearty Scottish classics, big comforting plates. Exactly what you want after a long day out. Just note, you’ll need to book and pre-order. They’re quite strict on it too, but it’s worth it.
Final Thoughts
This is the kind of trip that works whether you want to fill your days or do very little at all. You can hike, climb and explore. Or you can just slow everything down. Some of our favourite moments were the simplest. Walking along the canal, watching the boats, heading back before dark to light the fire and cook something easy.
If you have the time, don’t rush back to Glasgow. Continue on to Skye, like we did. If not, this is still as perfect escape on its own.
You can book Ivy Cottage via AirBnB HERE.