There are some restaurants you visit for the atmosphere, others for the occasion, and then there are those you visit purely because you just love good food. 40 Dean Street is the latter. Although, as we discovered, it does a pretty fabulous job of delivering on all three.
Tucked away on one of Soho’s busiest streets, this cosy little Italian is a refreshing reminder of what eating out should be about. No complicated sharing menus, no tiny plates that leave you wondering whether you need to order another three dishes. Just proper, hearty Italian food served in generous portions by people who genuinely seem to love what they do.
And the best bit? Nobody’s rushing you out the door. This is somewhere to gather your nearest and dearest, order a bottle of wine and happily lose two or three hours over some seriously good food.
A Soho Original With Plenty of Character
Despite having walked past 40 Dean Street countless times, it’s pretty incognito from the street. It wasn’t until I came across chef and founder Nima Safaei online that it really caught my attention.
Nima is quite the character, regularly sharing recipes and snippets from his kitchen on socials, and his enthusiasm for Italian cooking is infectious.
Interestingly, he originally planned to open a bar at the address back in 2009, but fell in love with the Italian restaurant already occupying the space. Together with his sister, who grew up in Florence, he transformed it into the family-run Italian we know today.
It’s now the original of three Soho restaurants, alongside the atmospheric 64 Old Compton Street, which opened in 2023, and the newer 27 Old Compton Street, a casual pasta bar serving handmade dishes in minutes.
But 40 Dean Street is where it all began. I loved the feel of the restaurant, and when you walk in it feels like you’re being led to the family dining table. It’s small, intimate and eclectic in the right way, with paintings, mirrors, quirky ornaments and nautical touches filling practically every corner. Downstairs, is where (if you’re lucky) you can catch a glimpse of the kitchen where the team makes its pasta fresh every day.
It’s busy, a little chaotic and full of life. But I think that is what makes it a proper Italian restaurant.
The Perfect Place for a Family Feast
We visited on a weekday evening with family, who were in London for the day. Now, choosing somewhere for a family meal always comes with a little added pressure. You want somewhere special enough to feel like an occasion, but relaxed enough that everyone feels comfortable. And, crucially, somewhere with a menu that caters to everyone’s tastes. 40 Dean Street couldn’t have been more spot on.
Within minutes of arriving, our waiter had us laughing, the menus were out and we were settling into a lovely bottle of Chianti.
The menu is essentially a collection of Italian crowd-pleasers: chicken Milanese, rich beef ragù, seafood linguine, pizzas, steaks and plenty of vegetarian options.
It manages to feel suitable for practically any occasion without losing that lovely, personal charm.
Starters Worth Saving Your Bread For
We started with the bruschetta, served on wonderfully soft, warm and springy focaccia, generously topped with ripe tomatoes, basil and aged balsamic.
There’s something about the combination of really good tomatoes, balsamic and bread that I find irresistible, and this absolutely delivered. The focaccia soaked up all those lovely juices without losing its texture.
We then opted for pan-fried tiger prawns, with four enormous prawns swimming in a rich shellfish and brandy-based sauce, accompanied by more focaccia for mopping up every last drop. And trust me, you’ll want to.
We were also seriously tempted by the burrata and aubergine parmigiana, but knowing we had more dishes ahead of us, some restraint was necessary.
Possibly the Best Seafood Linguine in London?
Now, I don’t make this statement lightly, particularly having just returned from Greece, where I ate my fair share of excellent seafood.
But 40 Dean Street served me what might genuinely be the best seafood linguine I’ve had in London. And that’s saying something. The portion was enormous, piled high with prawns, calamari and generous pieces of fish, all tossed through perfectly cooked linguine in a rich bisque and brandy sauce. It was beautifully balanced, neither overly acidic nor too sweet, with a lovely depth of flavour.
Then came my favourite part: the waiter arriving with a bowl of Parmesan and generously spooning it over until I said stop (eventually). Mixed into the sauce, it created this wonderfully rich, silky coating that brought everything together. I’d go back for this dish alone.
Italian Classics Done Right
Fortunately, being a table of four meant I got to sample everyone else’s food.
My partner ordered the chicken Milanese, beautifully crisp and well-seasoned, served with tomato spaghetti and fresh rocket. Another generous plate and exactly the sort of comforting Italian classic you hope for.
The beef ragù pappardelle was equally impressive. The beef practically fell apart at the touch of a fork, coating the fresh pasta in a rich, silky sauce that was full of flavour without being overly fatty.
And for something a little more autumnal, the wild mushroom, smoked mozzarella and truffle gnocchi was a winner. The gnocchi was beautifully soft and pillowy, while the truffle was delicately balanced rather than overpowering.
We also ordered a tomato salad, much to everyone’s amusement given the amount of food already on the table. But its fresh, slightly citrusy dressing was exactly what we needed to cut through those wonderfully rich dishes.
Always Leave Room for Dessert
With a dedicated pastry chef making the restaurant’s desserts in-house, it’s perhaps no surprise that they’re taken just as seriously as the pasta.
The profiteroles were 100% my favourite. Three enormous pastries packed full of delicious ice cream and covered in a thick, rich chocolate sauce that required a satisfying amount of effort to break through. Indulgent, chocolatey and oozing with naughtiness.
The panna cotta was beautifully silky, with a fresh berry coulis providing a lovely contrast to its creamy sweetness. And then there was the caramel cheesecake, a generous wedge with a crunchy base, wonderfully soft filling and rich caramel drizzle. Definitely one for anyone with a serious sweet tooth.
My only regret? Not ordering the signature tiramisu, particularly the pistachio version I’d spotted being heaped onto a nearby plate.
So, How Does 40 Dean Street Stand Up To London’s Italian Scene?
Okay. So, I’d go as far as saying it’s now one of my favourite Italian restaurants in London.
It’s food made with care, served with warmth and designed to be enjoyed. In a city where restaurants come and go at an astonishing pace, there’s something reassuring about somewhere that’s been doing its thing since 2009 and is still getting it so right.
We’ll definitely be back. Although next time, I might have to persuade Nima to share that seafood linguine recipe. Otherwise, I suppose I’ll just have to keep ordering it…