A weekend in Brighton with my sister was the perfect excuse to explore the city’s food scene. With no particular plans beyond a good catch-up, some shopping and plenty of eating, we’d bagged ourselves a table at Permit Room, having heard good things about Dishoom’s more laid-back sibling.
As a long-time fan of Dishoom, I was particularly curious to see how the two compared. While there are some familiar flavours on the menu, Permit Room feels like its own place, with more of a neighbourhood bar feel, an inventive cocktail list and a menu that encourages you to order a little bit of everything.
A Lively Little Corner of Brighton
Just moments from Brighton’s independent shops, cafés and boutiques, Permit Room is on East Street, making it an easy addition to an afternoon exploring The Lanes.
Inside, the restaurant takes inspiration from the drinking dens of 1970s Bombay, with dark wood furnishings, retro touches and a brilliantly eclectic collection of artwork. Colourful portraits, playful illustrations and Indian-inspired prints decorate the walls, while the handsome wooden bar gives the space a distinctly nostalgic feel.
There’s a lovely buzz about the place. The team were friendly and knew the menu inside out, talking us through the dishes and offering recommendations, and despite a full room we never felt rushed.
Indian Comfort Food with a Twist
The menu is designed for sharing with friends, with a tempting selection of small plates, tandoori grills and curries, AKA ‘Ruby Murrays’.
We started with the Onion Bhajia, crisp little spirals of shredded onion fried in a light, spiced batter. Accompanied by a vibrant green chutney, these were wonderfully moreish, with the chutney proving so delicious that we kept it on the table for the rest of our meal.
Another highlight was the Garlic Pepper Prawns, an Indo-Chinese-inspired dish of crispy prawns coated in a sticky soy-oyster sauce with plenty of garlic, black pepper and chilli. These certainly packed a punch, but the generous portion and addictive combination of sweet, salty and spicy flavours made them a must-order.
From the grill, the Charred Lamb Chops were beautifully tender, with a lightly crisp, spice-crusted exterior, and arrived alongside a Kashmiri chilli sauce that was surprisingly sweet. Even my sister, who isn’t usually a big fan of lamb, was won over.
The Tandoori Chicken was another enjoyable dish, smoky and succulent beneath its charred outside. Served with fresh kachumber salad and tangy green chutney, it was a welcome contrast to some of the richer dishes.
The Curry Worth Coming Back For
If there’s one dish I’d 100% recommend ordering, it’s the Prawn Moilee.
Inspired by the flavours of southern India, this fragrant curry combines coconut milk, turmeric, curry leaves, ginger and garlic. Generously filled with juicy prawns, it was comforting without being overly rich, with a gentle warmth. We paired ours with fluffy rice and garlic naan, perfect for soaking up every last drop.
The Chole was another pleasant surprise. This hearty chickpea curry, flavoured with roasted cumin, black tea and dried mango, had just the right level of heat, with chickpeas that kept their bite rather than going soft. It went really well with the grilled meats and is an excellent vegetarian option in its own right.
Presentation was fabulous too, with curries arriving in charming little clay pots and sauces served separately in miniature jugs.
Sweet Treats and Creative Cocktails
Despite being rather full, we (obviously!) couldn’t resist exploring the dessert menu.
The Chocolate Brownie with Malai was a deliciously indulgent choice. Served warm, the brownie had a gooey, fudgy centre and was topped with a cool, milky malai that gently melted over the chocolate. A scattering of jaggery added an interesting sweetness, while a subtle hint of chilli gave it an unusual twist.
We also tried the Chocolate & Butterscotch Ice-Cream Sandwich, a thick slab squeezed between two crisp wafers. It was rather firm straight from the freezer, but after a few minutes it softened and the crunchy butterscotch flavours came through.
Drinks are clearly a big part of the Permit Room experience, and the cocktails are worth the trip alone. There’s an Orange Wine Margarita and the Permit Room Clover Club, combining raspberry, lychee and gin with a coconut-cardamom foam.
Having long been a fan of Dishoom’s bottomless house chai, I was very tempted by the Chai Caffè Martini, an intriguing combination of coffee, chai spices and banana-infused rum. One for my next visit, perhaps.
There are also some excellent alcohol-free options, including a rather unusual CBD Bhang Lassi.
The Verdict
Permit Room sits somewhere between the comforting Indian flavours Dishoom is known for and the more playful, informal atmosphere of a neighbourhood bar.
It’s the sort of restaurant where you can pop in for a cocktail and a few snacks, or easily spend an entire evening working your way through the menu. Generous portions, great service, and a Prawn Moilee I’m still salivating over!
For those looking for a timelier reason to visit, Permit Room is also taking its Bombay-inspired hospitality to one of Brighton’s most spectacular landmarks. On Thursday 12 November, the team will host a special Diwali celebration at the Royal Pavilion, beginning with a drinks reception in the magnificent Music Room before moving into the State Banqueting Room for a bespoke three-course vegetarian feast coupled with live entertainment and drinks.
Book your table here. Diwali celebration tickets are available via the Royal Pavilion website.