A trip to Colonel Saab is certainly more than your usual meal out. You feel a sense of theatre, like you are travelling back in time, and deep into India’s rich cultural landscape. Set within the Grade II listed Holborn Town Hall, the space feels warm and inviting, reimagined in 2021 with dark woods, handwoven silk carpets and decadent Firozabad glass chandeliers.
Every corner tells a story, each revealing the personal tales of Colonel Manbeer and Mrs Binny Choudhary, whose adventures throughout India are captured in the restaurant’s very fabric. They are also the parents of Roop Partap Choudhary, the owner. His goal for Colonel Saab is to celebrate them: their zest for life and their love for each other.
Designed around small plates and regional specialities from throughout India, Executive Chef Sohan Bhandari invites guests to explore India’s rich culinary traditions and diversity in a way that feels familiar yet sophisticated.
The evening begins, as it (always) should, with cocktails. The signature Colonel Saab is a no brainer on a cold winter’s evening. A warm, smoky, blend composed of Paul John Nirvana whiskey, chai warmth and coffee liqueur, it sets the tone for the meal ahead, where flavours catch you by surprise and leave you reaching for more.
The Kolhapuri Lamb Chops starter is some of the best we’ve tasted, and a standout of the whole meal. Spice rubbed and perfectly charred, the lamb is soft and tasty, carrying a warmth that builds gradually rather than overwhelms. A portion of tandoori broccoli offers a great veggie contrast. Its creamy sauce with Urfa chilli flakes strikes a perfect balance between a touch of health and the naughtiness we were seeking.
Mains continue our journey into India. Our favourite was the Prawn Moilee, a dish which traces its roots to Kerala on India’s southwestern coast (a destination on our bucket list!), where coconut milk forms the backbone of many dishes. Known for its gentle spice and fragrant aromatics, the curry is light and fragrant with a generous portion of succulent prawns. Alongside, garlic naan arrives wrapped, warm and lightly blistered, its buttery finish making it the perfect companion for soaking up the sauces, while a serving of fragrant basmati rice provides a grounding balance that allows each dish to express its character.
If you have room for dessert, you must try the Rasmalai Milk Cake. Infused with cardamom and finished with delicate edible flowers that bring both fragrance and visual appeal, it was comforting and light – the perfect contrast to the richness of the dishes that came before it.
Throughout the evening, the service is friendly and attentive, with staff happy to share stories behind each dish and the quirky antiques that surround us. We found ourselves drawn to the Love Corner. It’s a quiet spot where family photos, old letters, and small gifts from Colonel Manbeer and Mrs Binny Choudhary were displayed. It gave us a real glimpse into the story behind Colonel Saab, making us appreciate not just the food, but the history and love woven into the space.
In a city brimming with Indian restaurants, Colonel Saab is not to be missed. And, if like us, you appreciate impressive surroundings and storytelling, you’ll want to plan your next visit soon. Our eyes are on its second venue in Trafalgar Square promising new sights and sounds, and a special Valentine’s Day tasting menu just around the corner.
Go check it out for yourself! Book here.