Last updated: January 16, 2024
Nestled amidst the hustle and bustle of historic Weymouth harbour sits a beautiful Grade II listed building that’s home to three thriving businesses. Weyfish Ltd, a traditional artisan fishmonger; Hatch, which sells sustainable seafood street food, and Catch at the Old Fish Market a high-end, fine dining restaurant.
Owned by Sean Cooper with Executive Chef Mike Naidoo, Catch has a wonderfully clear ethos; incredible, ingredient-led food with sustainability at the heart. A mission statement on which it unquestionably delivers.
Greeted at the door and ready for Dinner (Tuesday to Friday) or the Fish Tasting Menu (Saturday evening only), you find yourself in a working fishmongers, complete with a colourful and soothing fish tank. Counters cleared down for the day, the eyes are drawn upwards to the beautiful wooden ceiling beams and a spiral staircase that leads to the restaurant.
Cosy enough to feel intimate but light and airy, the attention to detail is classy but understated. A subtle seafaring vibe runs throughout (just what you want this close to the water) with local wines on the shelf, a view of the working kitchen and beautiful walnut tables free from linen. This is a deliberate choice as Catch aims to lower its carbon footprint by opting not to boil wash table cloths and napkins every day.
If sustainability is your bag there’s a few things you should know.
Catch operates greener heating systems and low energy lighting, saving over 6.5 tonnes of CO2 every year. The fishmonger business uses electric vehicles and the table water has been filtered or carbonated on site (not only that but it’s provided free of charge). Catch runs two of its own fishing boats out of Weymouth harbour as well as buying from 30 other small, owner operated vessels. The fish is caught using 3 different sustainable techniques – pot, static nets and rod and line (which produces 0% by-catch). All this adds up to an entry in the Michelin Guide 2022 for ‘commitment to sustainable gastronomy’.
The Saturday night fish tasting menu (£75) is printed on recycled white paper with an ingredients map on the back showcasing a commitment to quality, locally sourced food that supports the community, economy and limits environmental impact.
But how does it taste?
Amazing is the answer to that! Bread served with crab and lemon butter is followed by canapes including a cured trout tart with pickled cucumber and lemon and citrus gel. A taste explosion, the freshness wakes up the senses ready for the main menu. Scallop ceviche with pickled cucumber, granny smith apple and apple blossom looks beautiful on the plate and a dash of dill oil really makes the dish sing. Poached gurnard with lobster broth and locally grown beans is a stand-out dish and applecake served with honeycomb, blackcurrant and apple is the perfect seasonal dessert.
Should you wish to add the wine pairing menu (£45), rest assured that 50% of the wine list comes from Dorset, including the Bride Valley Vineyard of Steven Spurrier fame. More of a meat lover (incredible local cuts) or always seeking out the vegetarian option -then the weekday menu will be more your thing. Vegans beware though, there is currently no vegan menu on offer.
Combined with attentive and knowledgeable staff, Catch is ‘sea to plate’ and ‘field to fork’ at its very best. There is no greenwashing here just incredible flavours and a warm reception. Catch at the Old Fish Market has got it right; it had me, hook, line and sinker.
For more of Luxe Bible’s reviews in Dorset, click here.
