New restaurants seem to appear in Soho almost daily, yet Khao Bird instantly feels as though it’s been in the neighbourhood for years. Located in a former adult cinema on Brewer Street, the venue cheekily nods to its past, with a glowing pink neon KHAO sign, sultry low lighting, and an exposed bar brimming with every spirit you can think of.
While we never made it to their cult pop-up in Borough Market, it’s clear why founders Mike Palmer and chef Luke Larsson have earned their permanent spot in Soho. The menu is bold, vibrant, and unapologetically fun – a true celebration of northern Thai cuisine with influences stretching across Southeast Asia. Live fire barbecue is at the heart of it all, infusing dishes with smoke, depth and above all – character.
Our meal kicks off with the Shan Meatballs. Fresh, herby chicken, wrapped in caul fat and glazed with cola for a sweet and smoky finish. It was soft and juicy, and went so well with the Tea Leaf Salad, a lighter Burmese inspired dish that brought exactly the balance the table needed. Fermented tea leaves, herbs, and crisp vegetables make it bright, fresh and full of texture. It wasn’t necessarily a flavour we’d experienced before, which only made it more exciting.
For mains, the Khao Soi curry delivered everything we wanted (and more!) from a northern Thai classic. It had been a bit of a long, cold day in London, and the rich coconut broth with its egg noodles felt comforting without losing its sense of occasion. We chose the beef brisket option, presented theatrically; the bone lay dramatically across the top, dressed with a selection of vegetable toppings. I found myself spooning the broth over everything…it was simply too good.
But that isn’t to say the BBQ Lemongrass Chicken didn’t come a very close second. Charcoal-grilled thighs arrived caramelised to perfection, bursting with fragrant notes of lemongrass. It felt simple but bold at the same time, something that echoed the restaurant’s whole experience. Understated, unfussy and quietly confident.
Our waiter insisted that no visit is complete without the Mango Sticky Rice Cocktail, and he was right. A hybrid between a dessert and drink, it was playful, creamy and fruity – though, be warned – the vodka makes a cheeky appearance at the bottom.
What really makes Khao Bird stand out is the atmosphere. The staff are relaxed, chatty and welcoming. And given how inventive the cuisine is, prices remain refreshingly reasonable too. Starters are about £10, and mains cost roughly twice as much. Portions are designed for sharing, so we suggest ordering several dishes to sample a range of flavours together.
Insider tip: For a lively, bustling experience, ask for a table downstairs. If you prefer a more relaxed or romantic setting, the upstairs area offers softer lighting and a quieter feel, making a great date night setting.
Either way, Khao Bird is the kind of place you visit for a memorable night out, then find yourself dreaming up reasons to return. Our excuse? I’ll be back for the Khao Soi curry…enough said! Book here.