As I think back to my lavish lunch experience at Manzi’s last week, I can’t think of a single bad thing to say.
This Soho institution which for a long time was known as ‘the best seafood restaurant in London’ has been re-imagined and re-opened by The Wolseley Hospitality Group. Relaxed, yet glamorous with the most incredible interiors, the new Manzi’s is set across two floors and having been designed by Fabled Studios, the attention to detail is captivating.
Octopus handles on the main doors immediately raise a smile, while who could resist the 3D marlin in the lobby capturing our attention and imagination?!
Retaining a glimmer of the old skool charm, the Manzi’s of 2024 is most definitely modern. Gleaming gold lamps, soft but beautiful lighting, calming blue banquette seating and flashes of teal and cerulean make me think of the underwater restaurant in the Maldives – although I’m more than happy to be on dry land and in London for the meal that’s about to be served to us!
We start with a crisp glass of delicious champagne, because when you’re eating in a seafood restaurant that looks like this, well, why not? With it being Dry January, my friend orders something called a Coffee & Tonic which is one of the most extraordinary and delicious mocktails I’ve ever tried. Unable to work out what’s in it, we have to ask for another look at the menu and discover it’s a blend of Lyre’s Coffee Originale, orgeat, pineapple juice and light tonic water. With notes of coffee, almonds, caramel and chocolate, I’d come back to Manzi’s just for this! However, they do have an exceptional cocktail menu and my tequila based La Playa is equally divine.
Serving us, is the legendary Ridas Dapkus who has worked in some of London’s finest restaurants before joining The Wolseley Hospitality Group and Manzi’s. His knowledge of the dishes is second to none and we chat like old friends, discussing wine, cocktails, and finally the menu!
On Ridas’ recommendation I go for the Rossmore Native’s No. 2’s, served in a giant ornate octopus – its tentacles holding up the bowl. Plump and firm, nutty and sweet, Rossmore’s from Cork are heavenly with a squirt of fresh lemon and a dash of mignonette sauce.
Next up, roast scallops and bacon served on a skewer and decorated in samphire and sweet sour agrodolce sauce. The scallops are creamy and briny, chunky but delightfully tender, the salt from the bacon elevates the flavour and the samphire adds texture and compliments the flavours.
Unbeknownst to me, my friend is totally vegetarian (as in, doesn’t eat any fish at all!), so, I’m worried for about 5 seconds, until her tempura vegetables topped with a perfectly yellow duck egg arrives and I’m relieved Manzi’s are ahead of the game. As someone who eats everything, it’s an excellent starter, but nothing can rival my smoked haddock souffle which is one of the best souffles I’ve ever had. Light and fluffy, and in no way weighed down by the haddock (of which there must be plenty of in the dish), it’s has that textbook wobble and the light and airy centre, with such smooth, rich, delicious flavour. Swimming in cheese as every souffle should be, I savour every single mouthful.
With the menu offering a number of retro dishes as a nod to Manzi’s past, we decide to try the Arctic roll with pistachio and red sauce. Arriving exactly as we expect it to look, we dig in, grateful that the roll is so light (given that we’ve eaten so much) and taking a trip down memory lane also, as the combo of ice cream and sponge transports us back to childhood puddings!
We wash our gorgeous meal down with a bottle of Domaine Guy Allion Sauvignon from the Loire Valley – an easy drinking white with grassy notes, vibrant apple and citrus.
While upstairs isn’t open mid afternoon on the day we visit, we ask if we can look anyway, having seen photos of the venue which show glamorous mermaids holding up the central bar. It’s much better in real life, the colours, detail and thought process behind the design is quite incredible and I can’t wait to visit again and sit at this beautiful bar with a cocktail in hand.
One of London’s finest seafood restaurants, there’s no doubt Manzi’s will continue to impress its guests as it did for over 50 years. You’ll find Manzi’s at Bateman Buildings between Greek and Frith Street.
