Last updated: December 04, 2024
The city of Milan oozes with natural glamour and its restaurants are no exception, so its comes as no surprise that Raffles at the OWO – one of the decades most hotly anticipated London hotel openings – would want a restaurant like Paper Moon to wow its guests. The original relaxed Milanese eaterie opened almost 50 years ago and now has outposts in some of the chicest locations in the world, and this latest opening really is an experience from the moment you arrive.
Having been open a year now, Raffles at the OWO has definitely made itself at home, taking over residency at the Old War Office with 120 luxurious bedrooms while sparing no expense on its palatial grandeur. Paper Moon is one of the hotel’s nine restaurant offerings, positioned on the corner of the courtyard at Horse Guards Avenue. Being separate from the hotel establishes it as a destination restaurant rather than a hotel restaurant and it’s definitely somewhere you’d want to visit whether you’re staying at the hotel, or equally if you’re just looking for a fancy dining experience.
It seems we were lucky to get a 7pm booking on a Friday night because Paper Moon was already in full swing with pretty much every table taken when we arrived. The staff were incredibly warm and welcoming from the moment we stepped through the door, making us feel like VIPs from the offset. A main course here might be around the £60 mark but you get the impression you’d be treated exactly the same whether you’re here for a cocktail or a full on five course dinner.
We enjoy perfectly executed cocktails sat on high seats at the slick black bar framed by mirrored alcoves that reflect fragments of light in all colours from the bottles of spirits. The cocktail list has had some serious thought put into it but I’m craving the kick from a dirty martini and this one is absolutely perfect – strong and just the right amount of brine, it’s gone in no time.
After finishing our drinks, we’re seated in the elegant dining room and it’s quite obvious that no expense has been spared on the interiors. Olive trees, shades of terracotta and travertine marble all bring together the vibe of a chic Italian house – an incredible work of art from AB Concepts – the design studio who were also responsible for the original Paper Moon in Milan.
Skipping past the caviar section (although we definitely are tempted), there’s a huge selection of antipasti and we finally agree on the parmigiana as well as the salmon with avocado and tuna with mango.
The parmigiana is a good sized starter with smoky, earthy aubergine and the buttery consistency of eggplant that’s been roasted in just the right amount of olive oil. Datterino tomatoes burst with sun-ripened sweetness and an edge of acidity, while Campania mozzarella melts luxuriously with a subtle saltiness and fresh aromatic notes of basil.
Our primi piatti is the signature Parpadelle Paper Moon – a homemade pappardelle with tomato, cream and crispy bacon. Again, it’s a good sized dish, with wide silky ribbons of freshly prepared pasta – the perfect transporter for juicy sauce to journey from plate to mouth. Again the tomato sauce is a velvety, vibrant and creamy with satisfying salty nuggets of crispy bacon a welcome contrast to the silkiness of the sauce. It’s a simple Italian dish, elevated into something special.
Our secondi piatti – la nostre Milanese is huge! Mild flavoured veal is encased in a golden crispy coating with crunchy breading and perfect seasoning. A melagrano side salad of pomegranate seeds, juicy datterinos, onions, black olives and creamy feta is a light alternative to potato and we manage to devour the whole lot!
The authentic Italian Paper Moon tiramisiu is the dessert I didn’t know I needed – every mouthful of it! Pure indulgence, layered up and delivered with a dusting of cocoa. The bittersweet combo of flavours is divine, with caramel, chocolate and coffee notes enveloped in luxuriously thick mascarpone.
Italian dining at its absolute finest, Paper Moon will take you on a lavish culinary journey through elevated Italian classics. They’ve also just launched a four course menu with a focus on the aromatic essence of white truffle which surely tastes as divine as it sounds! Available now, dishes include Fiore – courgette flower stuffed with truffle burrata; risotto with 30 months aged Parmesan and veal jus and Filetto – grilled beef fillet with celeriac puree, girolle mushrooms and rosemary.
In the winter months, transporting yourself to Milan without leaving London is definitely appealing and a decision you won’t regret! Check out the full menu and more details, here.
